ExoTourbillon Rattrapante with Montblanc Villeret 1858 series external frame tourbillon chronograph watch is a masterpiece in the field of fine watchmaking with its stunning design. This watch is a masterpiece of a variety of advanced watch craftsmanship: a large balance wheel placed outside the tourbillon frame, a chronograph hand function, and a three-dimensional normative dial with a large gold fire enamel material.
The watch uses a large independent screw balance that is not bound by the tourbillon frame; it is no longer a single chronograph function. Montblanc Viller 1858 series outer frame tourbillon chronograph watch uses a dual-gull wheel and double-clamp structure Realize the chase chronograph function; unlike the dial of conventional materials, the three-dimensional dial of Montblanc Villeret 1858 series outer frame tourbillon chronograph watch is made of solid gold and large fire enamel. This masterpiece of traditional watchmaking craftsmanship uses an 18K white gold case, a standardized dial design, and a 24-hour second time zone function with day / night display. Only a limited number of 18 pieces will be available.
Heritage of complex craftsmanship
The chronograph is a super complicated function. The first chase chronograph was probably invented by Swiss watchmaker Louis-Frédéric Perrelet, the grandson of Neuchatel watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet who invented the automatic winding device in the 1770s. Louis-Frédéric Perrelet in 1827 showed his ‘double counter time timer’. This invention includes two chronograph seconds hands: one of the chronograph seconds hands continues to run when the chronograph function is turned on; the other chronograph seconds hand can be paused after pressing the control button to measure the time interval. Press the control button again, the previously stopped chronograph second hand will catch up with the continuous running hand and run in synchronization with it. The French word ‘rattraper’ means ‘catch up’, so Perrelet named his original invention ‘rattrapante’.
Other records indicate that the invention of the chronograph may belong to an Austrian watchmaker named Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, who developed the mechanism in 1829 when he settled in Paris. In the device invented by Perrelet, when the chase is paused and the first time interval is recorded, the coil spring pushes the chase second hand to the continuously running position. Winnerl’s invention is just the opposite. With the push of a heart-shaped disc and a heart-shaped rod, the second hand can be returned to the desired position. This structure with a heart-shaped disc is still widely used today, and inspired two Swiss watchmakers Henri-Féréol Piguet and Adolphe Nicole to invent the time-resetting mechanism in 1862.
Spare no effort in measuring the interval
The conventional timing function is usually classified as ‘daily use’ or ‘complex function’, while the chase timing function is completely in the super complicated field. If the conventional chronograph device is retrofitted to the chase chronograph function, the watchmaker needs to add an additional 70% of the movement components-for example, a chase second hand needs to be added to the measurement interval. This second hand is completely suspended while being paused. Does not affect the continuous operation of the regular chronograph second hand. Watchmakers need to work long hours to make, process, decorate and assemble these delicate steel parts. Montblanc Villeret’s watchmaking factory insists on making all kinds of movement parts by hand, so it requires a lot of manpower and labor. This tradition is based on ‘formatting function allocation’, and the meticulous work for hours or even days is only to create the various functional parts of the chronograph and tracking hand timing device, which are then precisely adjusted and precision assembled. The ‘formatting function allocation’ is strictly implemented throughout the assembly of the timing device: the watchmaker needs to carefully observe the start-up and operation of the timing device through a special magnifying glass, and even if it finds subtle irregular operations, the watchmaker needs to dismantle immediately Timing device, and adjust and assemble again. For example, a deviation of one hundredth of a millimeter, or an extremely slight deviation in the position of the lever; after the assembly of the movement device is re-assembled, it will be checked again by a computer. This process may need to be repeated 5 times, 6 times, or even more-just to ensure that every watch movement produced by Montblanc Villeret Watch Factory will run accurately in Montblanc watches.
This complicated work is just a chronograph movement that is enough to attract the attention of every watch lover. When watch enthusiasts turn on the chronograph function, they will use the sapphire crystal glass on the back of the watch to carefully observe the column wheel (used to control conventional timing devices) and the track pin wheel (used to open and close the pin wheel clamp ) Operation, and the delicate operation of the manual chamfered timing lever (press the corresponding timing control button, the timing lever transmits instructions to the two column wheels, the clutch device, the heart-shaped zero plate and the timing clamp). Also clearly visible is the slender cut-formed steel spring. When the chronograph push-button at 2 o’clock is pressed, the steel spring will press the traverse pin clamp, and the wearer can read the measured time interval. Press this button again, the clamp will be released, and the heart-shaped zero dial will automatically synchronize the chase gear with the conventional chronograph gear, and the chase seconds hand and the regular chronograph second hand will also run synchronously.
Villers: Home of the Chronograph
Villers, a small village in the Jura Mountains in the Swiss canton of Bern, happens to be halfway between the watchmaking cities of Bill and La Chaux-de-Fonds. The predecessor of Montblanc’s Villeret watch factory, the Minerva Watch Factory, has been here since 1858. Since its inception, Minerva Watchmaking Factory has occupied an important position in the Swiss watchmaking industry with surprising passion and achievements.
At that time, most of Minerva’s competitors could only be regarded as ‘assembly factories’. Most of them outsourced the movement components and manufactured the finished movement after assembly. At the same time, some ambitious watchmakers in Viller have started to develop and manufacture their own movements. These movements had the best quality at the time and won several awards at the International Industry Fair. Mass production of chronograph movements began in 1887: these movements were initially large in size to fit in pocket watches. Shortly thereafter, small-scale movements for watches became popular. The increasing professionalism of the chronograph movement led to the Calibre 42 movement in the 1930s. Its balance wheel can vibrate 100 times per second, so it can measure time intervals up to 1/100 second. Also produced at the same time is the chronograph stopwatch, which can measure the interval time without affecting the timing. At the Berlin Summer Games in 1936, these chronograph stopwatches produced by Minerva earned the watchmaker a global reputation.